One of the key measures of sustainability in the fast fashion sector is being suspended due to criticism that it is too cosy with clothing companies and a vehicle for greenwashing.
A report in the New York Times earlier this month accused The Higg Materials Sustainability Index of being favourable towards synthetic materials and too close to the clothes makers.
Norway, meanwhile, has clamped down on its use as a marketing tool for clothing.
The Norwegian Consumer Authority warned retailer H&M two weeks ago over claims on its website that were based on the Higg Index.
H&M was one of the original devisors of the index alongside Walmart, Nike, Levi’s, and Patagonia.
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), a not-for-profit organisation, and partner Higg maintain the index, which, since 2021, has included an environmental impact section detailing the impact of items of clothing emissions, fossil fuels, water use, and water pollution.
This part of the index was suspended two days ago, a move that has been welcomed by fashion activists.
"If you think of a lifecycle assessment as a clock face, the Higg MSI is only looking at midday to 3pm – only a very selective part of the impact,” said Philippa Grogan of fashion sustainability consultancy Eco-Age told the Guardian.
Members of the SAC number around 250 and includes Nike, Primark, Walmart, Boohoo and Amazon.